All of us had autograph books in school, right? In my days, in addition to writing some verse in each others autographs, we also had to fill in a section where there were headings like: name, date of birth, boyfriend, best friend, etc. One of the columns was honeymoon. I always filled Venice in that space. And so did half the class. It fascinated us to know this city was built on so many, many, tiny islands, literally in the water.

No, I didn’t make it to Venice for my honeymoon, for that matter I didn’t go on one at all, but subsequently I did visit Venice with a venegence. Meaning I have been there quite a few times now. And each time, it grows on me just a little more. It isn’t any wonder that whenever I am in Italy I manage just so that I can go to Venice for at least a couple of days, sometimes even just for a day if I am in the region. It is so unique, so hauntingly beautiful.

Venice has been known as the "La Dominante", "Serenissima", "Queen of the Adriatic", "City of Water", "City of Bridges" and "The City of Light". It is considered by many to be one of the most awesome cities in the world. Curiously, the city is built on an archipelago of 118 islands formed by about 150 canals in a shallow lagoon. The islands are connected by about 400 bridges. In the old center, the canals serve the function of roads. In the 19th century a causeway to the mainland brought a railway station to Venice, and an automobile causeway and parking lot was added in the 20th century. Beyond these land entrances at the northern edge of the city, transportation within the city remains, as it was in centuries past, entirely on water or on foot. Venice is Europe's largest urban car-free area, unique in Europe in remaining a sizable functioning city in the 21st century entirely without motorcars or trucks.

The classical Venetian boat is the gondola, although it is now mostly used for tourists, or for weddings, funerals and other ceremonies. Most Venetians now travel by motorised waterbuses (vaporetto) which ply regular routes along the major canals and between the city's islands. The rich residents have their own private boats like one would, a car. The only gondolas still in common use by Venetians are the traghetti, foot passenger ferries crossing the Grand Canal at certain points without bridges. Visitors can also take watertaxis which is expensive, the public transport system, with 25 routes which connect the city is the cheaper option.

Venice is served by the newly rebuilt Marco Polo International Airport, named in honour of its famous citizen. The airport is on the mainland and was rebuilt away from the coast; however, the watertaxis take you there in 10 minutes from St Mark’s Square and from the jetty it is just a five minute walk to the terminals. The ride in these taxis at the speed with which they go, is nothing short of big adventure. You ride the waves and sometimes the boat jumps five feet off the water!

To really enjoy Venice you have to enjoy walking. Invariably the first spot you head for is St Mark’s Square, which is impressive. It’s the principal square of Venice and really remarkable. A comment often attributed to Napoleon (but perhaps more correctly to Alfred de Musset) calls the Piazza San Marco, "The drawing room of Europe". It is one of the few great urban spaces in Europe where human voices prevail over the sounds of motorized traffic, which is confined to Venice's waterways.

As the central landmark and gathering place for Venice, Piazza San Marco is extremely popular with tourists, photographers, and Venetian pigeons. Unfortunately they have put a ban on feeding the pigeons, but most tourist sneak some crusty tidbits to them. What’s the point of a pigeon-less St Mark’s Square! So remember to slip some bread into your bag when you leave your breakfast table at the hotel. Alas, you will not find the grain seller of yore at the Square anymore.

The Piazza has always been seen as the centre of Venice. It was the location of all the important offices of the Venetian state, and has been the seat of the archbishop since the 19th century. It is also the focus for many of Venice's festivals. A greatly popular place, Sunday mornings will find live bands outside some of the better known cafes with sun umbrellas for shade and many chairs to park yourself and sip a wine or some coffee, if you prefer.

After I had spent a good amount of time soaking in the feeling at St Mark’s Square, I made my way to the Rialto Fish Market. I was meeting Guido and his wife for lunch at Pinto’s, a historical seafood specialty restaurant situated right at the fish market. I had the good fortune of being escorted around Venice for the next two days by Guido who is a die-hard Venetian. Born and bred in Venice, Guido is an artist and a well-respected food critic who has written several books on Venice. He knows every restaurant in the city and every restaurateur knows him.

After eating Pinto’s seafood platter made with minimal seasoning, we walked towards the Realto Bridge to where every tourist gravitates. There is so much activity over here, you can spend hours just sitting by the water, watching people, gondolas, the frenzy. Most cafes place tables and chairs right at the edge of the water and it is quite difficult finding a table.

Ages ago, it was the development and importance of the Rialto market on the eastern bank which increased traffic on the floating bridge which used to be around then. So it was replaced in the year 1255 by a wooden bridge. This structure had two inclined ramps meeting at a movable central section, that could be raised to allow the passage of tall ships. The connection with the market eventually led to a change of name for the bridge. During the first half of the 15th century two rows of shops were built along the sides of the bridge. The rents brought an income to the State Treasury, which helped maintain the bridge.

Maintenance was vital for the timber bridge. It was partly burnt in a revolt in 1310. In 1444 it collapsed under the weight of a crowd watching a boat parade and it collapsed again in 1524.

The idea of rebuilding the bridge in stone was first proposed in 1503. Several projects were considered over the following decades. In 1551 the authorities requested proposals for the renewal of the Rialto Bridge. Plans were offered by famous architects such as Jacopo Sansovino, Palladio and Vignola, but all involved a Classical approach with several arches, which was judged inappropriate to the situation. Even the great Michelangelo was considered as designer of the bridge.

The present stone bridge, a single div designed by Antonio da Ponte, was finally completed in 1591. It is rather similar to the wooden bridge it succeeded. Two inclined ramps lead up to a central portico. On either side of the portico the covered ramps carry rows of shops. The engineering of the bridge was considered so audacious that architect Vincenzo Scamozzi predicted future ruin. The bridge has defied its critics to become one of the architectural icons of Venice.

After all the discussions on the Rialto were done with, we dropped by two more restuarants to not eat, just meet the chefs. I was assured they were both very good eateries. The names are Antica Adelaide and Al Fontega.

After walking around happily and aimlessly for the next hour or so we headed towards Ardidos, a starters-and- more kind of place, which had only just opened. Trendy and a hotspot for the movers and shakers of Venice. The propreitress, young and trendy herself, fell in love with UpperCrust the moment she saw the magazine. It’s quite amazing how India and Indian cuisine is so high on the list of so many Italians. When we were at Ardidos, seated right at the door overlooking the door, a Contessa floated in with her friends and went and sat grandly at a corner table. Thanks to her I noticed there was an access to the canal directly. Meaning, if you arrive in a gondola that’s where you alight. It’s very quaint, this concept of a boat being a car.

After an aperitif and some appertisers we left for Alla Vedova. It’s a favourite with locals who drop in there on their way home from work. This restaurant impressed me big time. The meatballs, an absolute specialty have been on the menu for over four decades. Guido says the taste, the recipe, has not changed in all these years.

Fantastic! Fantastic! That incidentally, is the favourite Italian exclamation - fantastic, fantastic!

With all these tastings, I wondered if we would do justice to dinner, which was at an eatery with just four tables. A large one for 10 people, another for six, for four and for two. I promise it was so good and so inexpensive, I can state it was one of the best, if not the best Risotto I have ever eaten.

Though I could barely keep my eyes open we still went for a nightcap to a buzzing lounge and restuarant called Vini alla Frasca Liquori.And when we went for a long ride in Guido’s private gondola, I slept... dreaming of Venice, in Venice.