India's Culinary Roots

Some of the best restaurants of India are housed at the ITC Welcomgroup of Hotels. Here we have Habib Rehman, Executive Director of ITC Limited, Hotels, Travel and Toursim, trailing the origins of Indian cuisine.

Jiski Khushboo se mehek utthe fizza, Jiski rangat se bhi aa jaye maza Ho Nafees aur lazeez har luqma, Zaiqa iska ho har ek se juda Kha ke ho jaye Jehan Khush Mehman, Hum bechaaté hain wahi dastarkhan

- Old Urdu couplet by Rizvi

The aroma of which pervades the air, A sight which adds to its flavour Aesthetic and appetising is every morsel, With a taste unmatched and unique Prepared just to please our guest is the meal, That we serve at our table.

Seeped in culture and philosophy, ancient and medieval India was a land of riches, a land of gold and of silver, of silks and of brocades. A land of an ancient, varied and evolving culinary tradition.

“Foods that are nourishing and in the mode of goodness increase the duration of life and exalt the consciousness towards cosmic oneness”

- Thus spake the Bhagwad Gita

This text illustrates just how profound was the understanding of the importance of cuisine, even in those early times. We can consider ourselves fortunate, to have inherited this legacy of thought and acts - a true reflection of India’s inheritance in cuisine from ancient times.

Early texts, further mention that India’s philosophy regarding food, takes into consideration the need to create food patterns to suit each individual’s special constitution. Due consideration was implied to the time of day, the season, the quantity and this mix.

Such a land, where abundant natural endowments, peace and prosperity reigned and humane philosophy for co-existence guided most actions, would undoubtedly have appeared a highly desirable prize to people from other parts of the earth. And so they came - over land, across the mountains and the seas. Sweeping through the vast Indian sub-continent and bringing with them their varied backgrounds and culture - to learn from and add to, the flavours and pleasures of the peoples of India.

With the Silk Route developing in the west and the Spice Route in the east, India was at a great geographical location between the mid east and the far east. It had wheat growing in the west, rice in the east, great flora and fauna across the sub-continent and a coastline with incredible seafood around the Peninsula. But most important of all was the inclination of the people of India, to appreciate and to absorb cuisines and cultures from all over the world!

The Greeks engaged with the Mauryan Dynasty in the north, the sea - faring Arab traders brought their influences to the west coast, whilst the vast Hindu Kingdom of Indo-China established cross cultural roots. Dwellers from the Pamirs and the Hindukush traded their fare with the Indian heartland. The Spanish routed potatoes, tomatoes, spinach and much else. Portuguese influences remain prevalent in Goan flavours and the British left their imprint – this is the tale of food that travelled with ambassadors, soldiers, colonisers and traders.

Thus, nearer time, from the 16th century onwards, the cuisine in much of India, developed as a synthesis of flavours from West and Central Asia, Europe, the Mediterranean, China and East Asia. All this while, the Indian kitchen continued to fuse together - enriching food by refining recipes, creating new dishes and bringing together menus from different traditions and cultures, into the meals of the Mainland. The development of these cuisines was sustained by Emperors, Kings, their royal successors, the nobility and then down to the common kitchen - enjoined by Vaids and Hakims, Khansamas and Rekabdars and by the personal efforts of enterprising members of royalty & nobility, for whom food was a subject of great interest... a good enough legacy for India to produce such versatile chefs.

With the industrialisation in Europe, food began to be mass produced in factories - biscuit tins and wrapped chocolates found their way to people all over the world. Cooking on wood gave way to cooking on charcoal to kerosene to electricity to gas. Ovens were invented as were refrigerators and deep freezers. And with these inventions came fast food - a trend that largely began in America in the post World War II era and soon spread all over the world. This was ‘Food’ reflective of the needs and limitations of the times. Joint families broke up to give way to the nuclear family. Working couples, with no time for leisure and being able to sit back and enjoy a comfortable meal, marked the coming of age of the nuclear family - heralding the age of instant food.

Experimentation with food is a natural human tendency and today this experimentation has much emphasis on appearance, presentation and style.

Western cuisine, with its subtle, often bland flavours and blends, is a natural choice for experimentation & assimilation as the globe integrates. Thus western and eastern blends were to be expected and given the space and opportunity, much of the fusion cuisine is its logical outcome.

Certainly where Indian cuisine is concerned, amongst our greatest treasures has been our somewhat lost, ancient culinary heritage. And it is with these treasured recipes preserved over centuries, that ITC-Welcomgroup Hotels have been engaged in an on-going process of rediscovery and resurrection. When I joined the hotel industry, some 30 years back, the F&B trade was dominated by cuisine other than Indian and that too, largely from the west. In star-rated hotels, Indian food was relegated to one corner of the kitchen, where ready-made variations of brown, white and tomato based gravies, dominated the menu. Extravagant cookhouses added a tandoor to their repertoire...

I have always believed that Indian food is globally growing in popularity, not because of its fusion offspring, but because of the purity of its parentage. Steeped in definitive flavours, our cuisines are like a vast sea, yet to be discovered, carrying in its wake the tried and tested flavours of the glorious past. As the globe recognises India also for its rich culinary heritage, we feel justified in saying that ITC-Welcomgroup has been a pioneer in the rediscovery of India’s culinary roots, away from the temptations of overseas fusion trends. Today, after 30 years, as we look back and see Bukhara, Peshawri, Dum Pukht, Kebabs & Kurries and Dakshin, running to full fashionable capacity all around the country, take great pride in the fact that our kitchens are continuing their quest for authenticity. Flavours from Kashmir to Kerala and from Bengal to Goa, all find pride of place on our menus today, giving our unbroken culture of 5000 years, self esteem and dignity, a boost - as is evident at home and abroad, whilst we take our rightful place at the high table of global affairs…

Cheers!



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