Parma, city of traditional aristocratic cultures, rich with precious works of art and a capital city in its past, famous for its most illustrious children and for artists who work within her � from Benedetto Antelami to Salimbene, from Correggio to Parmigiano, from Bodoni to Verdi and Toscanini, from Stendhal to Proust � is totally unlike any of the many beautiful cities that attract visitors to Italy. In fact, it has been historically marked by the enlightened government of Maria Luigia, the wife of Napoleon, when it was the capital of the Duchy of Parma, Piacenza and Guastalla. Parma is situated in Emilia Romagna, half-way between Milan to Bologna. Parma is famous as the capital food centre of Italy, for its inimitable products and in particular for its Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, cured pork meats and its famous Prosciutto de Parma. You can buy Parma ham, Parmesan cheese, and Modena's Balsamic vinegar, all guaranteed as genuine, in any of the many sumeria or delicatessans in Parma, or in the rest of Italy. These products are much more expensive outside Italy.

Cristiani Clerici from the 'Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano' met us at our hotel, and took us to one of the many cottage industry like places where Parmesan cheese is made by hand. We had to wear white plastic overalls and slippers which covered us from head to foot, making us look like space age Martians (visitors to the highly technical, integrated circuits and semiconductor factories which are used for computers and such like, are made to do the same, so strict are the hygienic requirement of the hand made Parma cheese).

It requires enormously strong men to make the huge rounds of these cheeses, making them involves turning them around several times. Finally they are stored in racks to mature for two to three years which is the best age to buy and consume this unique and versatile cheese. What would Italian cooking be without it?

It is an unique cheese in that it is made from cows' milk which comes from cows which have grazed in particular meadows. The milk is tagged, and then mixed, much like good champagne is blended from the wine from several different vineyards in the Reims and Epernay regions! Parmesan in fact is the champagne of cheeses.

Traditional Parmigiano-Reggiano is now being considered to be a symbol of Italian culture and civilisation. This product is one of the most imitated in the world. In the Parmigiano-Reggiano there is a real concentration of nutritional substances, as a kilo of cheese comes out from a good 16 litres of the most valuable milk of the area.

Exceptional for its protein and vitamin content and for its wealth of calcium and phosphorus. It is relatively low in cholesterol, and we were told that 100 grams of the cheese is digested in 45 minutes as opposed to four hours for the same quantity of meat.

Fortunately it is not necessary to be an expert to recognise the real Parmigiano-Reggiano. The traditional marking with the inscription in full 'Parmigiano- Reggiano' is impressed along the side of the whole cheese and enables the identification even on small pieces. The structure of the cheese paste is unmistakable too: granular, with the typical breaking in slivers and the particular fragrant and delicate aroma.

There was a shop on the premises and Farzana and I bought wheels of these cheeses, as well as graters and slicers, and also had a tasting of the variously aged cheeses with some good Soave white wine, and sparkling Prosecco. The ever helpful and charming Cristiani had looked after us well, an educational tour followed by a feast! And presents of Parmigiano-Reggiano, special cheese cutting knives and boards.