OINDRILLA DUTT, the high priestess of Calcutta�s social whirl, a gourmet, newspaper columnist and advertising and marketing wiz, visited Madrid for the food.

THE wonderful thing about embarking on an overseas junket with a serious foodie in tow is that one's food options have been researched in fine detail, well in advance. Jayanta Mitter is one of the keenest gastronomes in Calcutta (and the city is littered with them); so, a Spanish sojourn in the company of Jayanta, his wife Susmita and Ranjit Sen (Dada) - another epicure of note - seemed a decidedly exciting proposition.

Spain abounds in seafood of every size, shape and hue. Squid, tuna, shellfish, hake, sardines, sole - you name it and there it is. Virtual paradise for any self-respecting Bong! Having been primed by Jayanta in advance, Susmita and Dada tried and polished of every variety of fish on offer. Jayanta confined himself to devouring huge quantities of diverse meats while I concentrated (mostly) on the vegetarian fare.

Sampling tapas (mini snacks) ranging from calamares (squid) to mushrooms, at different bars, makes for a meal of satisfyingly varied tastes, at a budget price. In fact, a large number of establishments have two different prices - one for the table and one for standing at the bar. A meal in itself is the ever-popular Paella which is rice simmered in saffron (the Spanish variety rates amongst the best in the world), with seafood, vegetables (sometimes) and chicken or meat.

Other popular dishes include the inexpensive Tortillas (omelettes with fillings), Gazpacho (a cold, vinegar-based soup with tomatoes, bread crumbs and cucumber), Bocadillos (long, filled white bread rolls), Chorizo and Salchichon (sausages), Creme Catalan (a delicious, light custard with a crusty top) and the delectable (and expensive) Jamon de Serrano (air-cured ham). With all this information at Jayanta's fingertips, we set out to uncover Spain's culinary delights in Madrid.

Madrid is dotted with innumerable restaurants, tapas bars, terrazas (outdoor bars) and mesones (small speciality bars), offering meals to suit all palates and pockets. It has more bars and night clubs than any other European city. It is a good idea to make a beeline for the eateries Madrilenos flock to since they have a fine appreciation of the best food on offer.

One such is Sobrino de Botin - a must on your gastronomic itinerary - located at 17 Couchilleros, off Plaza Major (Madrid's most famous square). If there is just one expensive meal you can afford, let it be at the four-storeyed Botin, the world's oldest restaurant (1725) according to the Guinness Book Of Records. Hemingway was a loyal patron and Botin finds a place in the final pages of The Sun Also Rises. Goya is rumoured to have washed dishes here, before making it as a painter.

Jayanta made a reservation for our first night in Madrid and we set off for Plaza Major in pleasurable anticipation. Since we were early, we strolled around the Plaza, checking out the menus at the many cafes, terrazas and regular restaurants all along its periphery and leaving in our wake a string of handsome young men, tripping over the cobblestones, in their eagerness to discover which way the latest 'Spanish Beauty' in town - Susmita - was headed. Many strains of music and many languages wafted towards us on the cool night air as we wended our way to Botin, passing the interesting El Cuchi, with the sign above the door reading: "We don't speak English but we won't laugh at your Spanish".

Wooden beams and antique tiles made an impression as we climbed the stairs. Vaulted cellars, a profusion of paintings, ceramics and other artefacts, ovens dating back a few centuries and a warm and friendly atmosphere all worked like a charm, even though every inch of dining space was crammed with hordes of tourists and locals. A charcoal hearth and hanging copper pots lent a distinctive character to the open kitchen. The wood, tiled oven was the original.

The drifting aroma from a regional pot of soup tantalised the diners. Jayanta ordered Roast Suckling Pig, while Dada cast his vote for Roast Baby Lamb - two slow-cooked Castilian roasts on which Botin managed to confer divine status. At Botin, they never ask you how you want your meat cooked. They know best! Susmita's fish and my tortilla were succulent and aromatic.

Two other dishes worth a try are the Baked Cantabrian Hake and Filet Mignon with Potatoes. As an accompaniment, Susmita and Jayanta preferred Sangria (a sweet punch comprising red wine, fruit and spirits) to the more standard Rioja Alta and this, no doubt, accounted for the extra gleam in Sush's eye, which had many a waiter making a beeline for our table. Even as we sat back to savour a truly memorable dining experience, a tuna - a group of minstrels in medieval costumes - sauntered in to entertain the guests (a regular feature) and the Sangria overflowed. A must visit, though reservations are essential.

Other eateries worth a visit are Artemisa and La Biotika - both havens for vegans, Museo de Jamon - a 'museum of ham' with endless rows of ham hanging on the walls and above the bar - and La Trucha, where trout (trucha) is the speciality. You could also drop in at the Cafi Gijon, another of Hemingway's favourite haunts, to indulge in the Spanish version of Bengal's 'adda' or take in the piano melodies at the art nouveau El Espejo.

If it is bars where you come alive, Plaza de Santa Ana, with its preponderance of tapas bars, is the place for you. Students have made the tavern Viva Madrid (built in 1890), with its ornate tiles, a trendy hangout. Los Gabrieles flaunts a collection of ghoulish skeletons on its patterned walls. Cerveceria Alemana (1904) was another of the watering holes frequented by Hemingway. The bullfighting prints on its walls are echoed in the Gran Hotel Reina Victoria's stylish and popular Bullfighters' Bar - the Manuel Gonzalez Manolete (14 Plaza de Santa Ana).

The famous bullfighter Manolete used to stay and entertain lavishly at this impressive hotel with an ornate stone facade, built in 1923, named after King Juan Carlos's grandmother and today protected as a historical monument. In tribute to Manolete, the bar has a lavish display of bullfighting memorabilia and Dada and Jayanta can testify to the potency of the drinks.

It is easy to surrender to the ambience of the place - soak in the bullfighting lore while savouring generous helpings of the peach coloured Sangria. A note of caution though: don't ever make the mistake of letting the excellence of the bar lull you into a dinner misadventure at the adjacent El Ruedo! Take that from one who has suffered the experience.