Of the hawker centre, a row of vendors cooking and selling various types of food on the spot, where practically all the working population eats. And the upmarket restaurants with their cordon bleu chefs and the roving speciality gourmet experts. This is is a more eclectic collection of eating places that are among her personal favourites.

MAMA AFRICA

There is to be frank, something disqueting about Mama Africa, the South African eatery at Far East Plaza, the chic conservation area that�s become a yuppie watering hole. It�s probably the same sort of feeling that the Continent gives. A sense of wild abundance, of fertility, of deep, dark underlying chaos.

The decor goes a long way in reinforcing this with a tangle of things African. The food has the same character, that of a vast celebration, an explosion of tastes and flavours. There is a large Asian population in South Africa, the chef informs us.

A fact that is directly borne out by an unusual lamb salad � the Warm Karoo Lamb that has the subtlety and richness of a dum pukht delicacy. On a bed of eggplant with flavours of coriander and ginger, it is familiar and so strange at the same time. And that is really what makes Mama Africa such a worthwhile experience.

Try the butterfish, an African river fish with, well, a buttery texture. The peri-peri prawns are fascinating too. And if you�re the adventurous type you can try out the crocodile meat, referred to mysteriously on the menu as �African River Fish�.

ORIGINAL SIN

When you eat at the Original Sin, you can almost taste the sunshine, the fresh air and the flavours of wild herbs of the Mediterranean. Not surprising because that�s where so many of the ingredients and all of the recipes come from.

It seems surprisingly logical in retrospect a vegetarian restaurant to celebrate the tastes of the Mediterranean. Greek, Italian, Turkish, Spanish and Middle Eastern cuisine is naturally full of seasonal vegetables and local flavours, linked with a love for olive oil and garlic.

The thing about Original Sin is that they�ve done it well. By keeping the focus on the food and keeping the food wholesome and stylish at the same time, they�ve got something that�s attracted and held the attention of the notoriously fickle Singaporean diner.

If it�s your first time there you should try the Mezze Plate, a selection of six Middle Eastern dishes served with wedges of toasted pita bread. The servings are not celebrated for their generosity, but each plate is done exquisitely and really pretty.

HARRY�S BAR

In every city there is one bar where the yuppies gather. In Singapore it�s Harry�s Bar. Located in a restored shophouse in Boat Quay, a strip of glittering bars and restaurants by the Singapore River, a few minutes away from the financial district. As the evenings trading comes to an end, Harry�s fills up mostly with expatriates. A small band in the corner begins playing jazz and people eat peanuts and throw the shells on the floor.

Since 1992 people have been wandering into its dark, cool interior and settling on the cane chairs, under the lazy ceiling fans on long Singapore afternoons. Harry�s is a genuinely friendly place and that is really the secret of its success. The staff greets you and finds you a chair. If you want to nurse a small mineral water for six hours, no one cleans the table with aggressive gestures. As a result the yuppies come and drink vast quantities of alcohol.

MEZZA 9

On the mezzanine floor of the Hyatt Singapore is a concept restaurant that�s made a mark all its own even in the crowded culinary landscape of this city. It features nine different eating and drinking concepts on one generously proportioned floor. One can only imagine the satisfaction of the copywriter who came up with the name � Mezza 9.

The reason Mezza 9 works where so many other similar attempts don�t is that here the integrity of each kitchen is preserved. Each has its own chef and staff, own ingredients and own philosophy. There is a Hong Kong style Chinese kitchen with a basic but imaginative selection, a sushi bar with some very adequate sashimi, a yakitori section, a patisserie, a western grill, a dimsum counter, a deli, a wine cellar and a bar and cigar room.

Since the kitchens are based on an open concept, you could take a table outside the cuisine you order and watch the chefs at work. A wander around before settling down for your meal is quite all right and could well help you make up your mind. While it is a formal restaurant, I saw one unfortunate guest who turned up in Bermudas being offered a pair of trousers; it has consequently a lighter, more informal air.

HOUSE OF MAO

With the opening of the Chinese economy there�s also been a thriving market in Mao memorabilia. There are a few thousand badges on display at the �House Of Mao�, the new Hunanese cuisine restaurant that�s making waves in Singapore. They range from elaborate ceramic ones to basic aluminium badges. And that�s only part of the huge collection of stuff that they have on display and sale.

But the real reason to go down to the House of Mao is the food. Human cuisine is a lot subtler than the better known spicy Schezuan. It relies a lot on light cooking and Chinese herbs to bring out subtle and unfamiliar textures from familiar ingredients.

The interiors are decorated with authentic revolutionary memorabilia, posters, photographs and paintings everywhere has the Chairman smiling benevolently down at you and young revolutionaries raise red flags everywhere. The waiters too are dressed in the baggy army uniform of the Chinese national army.

The food has an experimental and adventurous slant to it, twisting the traditional Hunanese cuisine with influences of Europe and Asia. The Chairman Mao�s favourite braised garlic pork is one of the signature dishes. Another dramatic favourite is the crispy pomfret, deep fried in a bamboo basket.

Singapore's good food guide