About Town
If there is a city, that straddles the best of both worlds, past and present, it has to be Ahmedabad. UpperCrust takes you on a tour of this city.

Did you know that Ahmedabad was once called 'Gardabad' because it is incredibly polluted and dusty? Located on the banks of the River Sabarmati,  it was the capital of Gujarat from 1960 to 1970 which was then shifted to Gandhinagar.  The city is sometimes called 'Karnavati', after an old town that existed at the same location;
in colloquial Gujarati, it is called 'Amdavad'.

Another title that the city attained was 'Manchester of India'. Owing to the fact that at one time, there were 60 odd profitable textile mills working in three shifts, dotting the city skyline with black smoke emanating from the chimneys;  it is said, in those days, one could set one's watch  by the sirens from the mills. On May 30, 1861, Ranchhodlal Chhotalal founded the first Indian textile mill here, followed by the Calico Mills of Maganbhai in 1880 and other industrialists such as Ambalal Sarabhai and Kasturbhai Lalbhai followed suit. Arvind Mills, located in Ahmedabad, is one of the largest textile mills in the country. When the textile era ended, one would have thought that  the economy would not bounce back, but did not reckon with Gujarati grit and enterprise. Today perhaps, it is as prosperous as it was  in the old days, thanks to its strong-willed people who resolved to bring it to its former glory.   A determination to succeed is writ large on the faces of the movers and shakers of the city. Take Rushad Ginwala, who carved out a flourishing restaurant business for himself or  Paru Jaikrishna, the first lady to be the President of the Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Gordhan Purohit, the 'catering king' as we have called him, is rightfully at the helm of foodie affairs here. And let us not forget the little Cellad Eatery, born out of the resolve of two women to carve a niche for health foods in Ahmedabad.

This place is blessed. After all, it has Mahatma Gandhi's Sabarmati Ashram and its share of beautiful old temples and mosques of great architectural value, dating back to ancient times. Of these, the Sidi Saiyyed Jali and the Swaminarayan Temple are a visual treat. Those who have set up  business in Ahmedabad have flourished. Our very own Areez P. Khambatta, owner of the Rasna cold-drink concentrates, is ample proof of this.

The best way to take in the sights is to start your day with a heritage walk through the Walled City - the best representation of the 'living culture' of Ahmedabad. Quaint buildings stand cheek-by-jowl and narrow lanes connect to each other like a maze. This is the pol area of the city. And mind your step, for cattle, dogs, cats and even donkeys, have the right of way here. It is a common sight to see  people stopping by on the road, to feed the animals and every house has it’s own chabootara or bird feed pole,  which proves that the gentle Ahmedabadis are animal lovers. A not to be missed location, is the Kavi Dalpatram square in the pol area; old world charm at its best. To get a feel of rich art and culture take a tour of the Calico Museum in the Shahibag area of the city. It is one of the finest textile museums in the world with its pichhwais (wall hangings), Jain artefacts and Indian miniature paintings . But watch out for the annoying guide here, she shepherds you around the place like an old school marm!

A deep love for preserving Ahmedbad's culture exists  and caring citizens are trying to save the beautiful structures in the pol area of the city. The present generation of Abhay Mangaldas and Umang Hutheesing must be lauded for their efforts, in restoring their family havelis to a state of opulence and staying at these, is a charming experience. 

Old Ahmedabad city, was encompassed by a fort called Bhadra, which had 12 darwazas (gates). Each of them with beautiful carvings, calligraphy and some with balconies too notable among them are Teen Darwaza, Lal Darwaza, Delhi Darwaza (pointing in the direction of Delhi) and so forth. One of the most majestic gates, the Teen Darwaza was built in 1411 by Sultan Ahmed Shah. Here, you find  small shops selling assorted items, a scene you will not get to see in any other part of the city. The first shop here, Saraiya Chunilal Haldar is remarkable. It is said when a girl's marriage date is fixed, her family come and buy kumkum for sindoor and tikkas, an auspicious start to wedding shopping in Ahmedabad. Hot chai (tea) is sold and served from little brass kettles kept hot on coal sigris quaint iron stoves .

And last, but not the least go to Ahmedabad for a gourmet experience. Food is the nucleus of all activities in
this city and Amdavadis eat and serve to their heart's content. Combining simplicity with nutritive value and  variety, the thalis (usually large steel plates with small vaatis (bowls) filled with assorted vegetables, dals (lentils) , dahi (yoghurt), savoury snacks and freshly made rice served piping hot, and sweetmeats make for an unique dining experience. For traditional Gujarati thali, try Chetna at Relief Road. The bhajiyas at Raipur gate and the samosas at Navtad-ni-pol are a must-have. Enjoy street food  at Khau Galli in Law Garden. Chaats and fast food are available at  Honest on C.G.  Road  The Havmor chain of restaurants and ice-cream parlours are tried and trusted.

Non-vegetarians  get their fill at    Bhatiyaar galli a street, lined with eateries selling rich Mughlai delicacies, that usually comes to life after sundown. Visit Diamond where you find the city's adventurous vegetarians (that's right), having their fill of chicken tandoori  and naan korma!  Unity in diversity in a city of happy contrasts.



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