Imagine a vacation where you can spend a night and dine in a castle, the next in a fortress, then a hunting lodge, monastery, country club and other great locations. The Spanish Parador system, which turns centuries-old monuments into magical hotels, has mastered the art of hospitality with history. Fine dining is an intrinsic part of the Parador experience as you can eat your way from region to region! Parador are leading gastronomic exponents of Spanish cuisine be it Basque, Catalan, medieval Sephardic cuisine or other regional cooking. Seafood is popular at the coastal Paradors and those on the Canary Islands and Majorca. We discovered our first Parador when Madrid had no hotel rooms for us. Alternate accommodation was available at Toledo, about an hour's drive from the sprawling capital. The prospect of scanning roadmaps at night after a long flight for a stay at a government hotel was not inviting.

Nothing had prepared us for Toledo, El Greco's fabled city of cathedrals and castles rising above an ancient landscape. Equally unexpected was the elegance of the hilltop Parador de Toledo, decorated with antique furniture and oil paintings. Draped over the balcony, weary but wide-eyed, we gazed at the floodlit monuments of this historic city where Moors, Jews and Christians had lived, loved and battled. Overnight, having slept in beds made up with fine linen, walked through polished corridors decorated with artworks, and enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast, our perception of state-run hotels changed. Thus began our love affair with the Paradors of Spain.

The idea of setting up hotels in remote, dramatic locations to stimulate the region's economy was first mooted in 1926 by the Marquee de la Vega Inclan, King Alfonso XIII's Royal Commissioner for Tourism. Being unprofitable for private enterprise, it became a government venture. The King himself selected the mountain location for the first hotel, the Parador de Gredos (Avila), a stony construction appointed with Castilian furniture, which opened in 1928. Then, the idea was born to restore old properties into fairytale settings for tourists. Today, there are 86 Paradors, either in historic-artistic buildings or extraordinary natural settings, owned and managed by the Paradores de Turismo de Espana. Professionalism is ensuring the success of the Paradors that have been around for 70 years. Young and dynamic Ana Isabel Mariqo, the first woman to become the Executive President of Paradores de Turismo de Espana, believes tourists deserve "the highest standards of quality and modernity" from the flagship of Spanish tourism.

Spain � one of the most visited countries in the world �annually gets about 45 million tourists. It is easy to see why tourism is an important and successful industry for this country of 40 million people. Positioned on the strategic crossroads of civilisation and culture, Spain is an integral part of Europe yet a comparatively protected destination isolated by mountains and oceans. Nature and history have endowed it with monumental charm and its efficient tourism infrastructure makes it an easy and attractive holiday idea.

One of the best is the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera on the route between Madrid and the Costa del Sol. Driving from Cardoba, our minds were still on the town's drawing card �the 8th century Mezquitta, a grand mosque of pillars and arches and an incredible Cathedral. Suddenly, the highway gave way to a narrow, cobbled street that winds uphill through a Moorish scene. As we passed, pedestrians flattened themselves against the ancient walls. Magnificently located on the peak, the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera, (Cadiz), or the restored Casa del Corregidor, overhangs a precipice above olive plantations. The mansion's Andalusian accents are evident in the latticework and flowery tiling. When my mind flicks through images of the most fascinating places visited, Arcos de la Frontera invariable appears.

Arco is the starting point for a tour of the famous White Villages in the Sierra Nevada foothills not far from the Costa del Sol. For most visitors, the drive generally ends at the spectacularly located Parador de Ronda. Our tour first took us past Prado del Rey, El Bosque, Grazalema, each village a charming collage of all-white homes. At Ronda, we lunched on the balcony of the Parador perched on a massive rock above the 100-metre gorge spanned by an engineering feat, the Puente Nuevo (1761). Ronda's significant Roman features make it a popular tourist destination.

More recently, we pursued the Parador trail on a drive from Madrid to Barcelona. Our first rest stop was at the Parador de Chinchon, an old-worldly, 17th century Augustinian convent with a delightful garden of cypress trees, ideal for a weekend from Madrid. We drove on to Cuenca, where the Parador de Cuenca, a 16th century convent, faces the town's star attraction � the amazing Hanging Houses. Our drive overlapped the Route of the Maestrazgo, territories of the old, Aragonese Crown ruled by military orders. The historical circuit took in the Paradors of Alcaniz (restored fortress), Teruel (Moorish mansion), El Saler (golf resort) and Tortosa (citadel). The Parador de Teruel is minutes away from the Old Town, a World Heritage site with unique architectural features. The Cathedral's multi-patterned brickwork and the city's five towers studded with blue and green ceramic tiles are fascinating example of the artistry of the Mudijars or Muslims who remained in occupied Christian territories. The Parador de Tortosa is an impressive fortress with charmingly appointed rooms overlooking the town and the river.

More in the style of a country club is the gleaming-white Parador de El Saler within a national forest reserve, 18 km from Valencia. Being within a carefully preserved environment, the Parador is not sign-posted. After swinging between several freeways, we chanced upon the impressive, beachfront Parador. Our spacious room overlooked the 18-hole El Saler Golf Course, considered the third best in Spain. Parador devotees include European retirees who own summer homes in Spain and enjoy touring the country while pursuing their interests. Apart from golf, which is offered at 32 locations, Paradors offer opportunities for hang-gliding, skiing, underwater diving, riding and spa treatments. Classified three to five star, Paradors are located within driving distance of each other. Special rates are available for five nights at various locations. That the Parador brand name enjoys prestige is obvious at our last Parador. Santiago de Compostela, a charismatic town in northwest Spain was not on our route. But, hearing it was Christendom's third most important pilgrimage place after Rome and Jerusalem during the Middle Ages, we took an overnight train for a visit. Even today, hundreds of backpackers are recreating the journey along old, well-travelled routes that culminate at the tomb of St. James within the stunning Cathedral. It was still dark when we arrived by taxi at the Parador Santiago de Compostela or "Parador Hostal dos Reis Catolicos." Colourful flags flapped in the breeze outside its magnificent carved doorway. Next door, within the spacious, cobbled square, the majestic Cathedral's jagged spires added mystery to the darkness. The Parador, built in the 16th century by Catholic monarchs to house pilgrims, was an eye-opener! One of the world's finest hotels, it boasts a lofty chapel with carved columns, arcaded patios with fountains, grand reception rooms decorated with antique furniture and luxurious guestrooms.

For information, contact Paradores Reservation Centre,
tel: 34 91 516 66 66 or fax: 34 91 516 66 57.
Email: [email protected]. Website: www.parador.es.