CHEF'S SPECIAL

Chef's Special

Hot Curry Coming

It isn’t the norm to find a chef who is as talented and famous and yet as simple and friendly, even as warm and humble, as Chef Ian Kittichai. It could be very easy to pass off his simplicity and friendliness based on the fact that he comes from humble beginnings but that is not so. For there are many who hail from modest backgrounds, but who, having achieved name and fame, become arrogant and snooty, particularly chefs.

But not Chef Kittichai, thankfully, whose company I enjoyed immensely when I went to meet him at his signature restaurant, Koh by Ian Kittichai at the Intercontinental on the Marine Drive in Mumbai.

Koh has replaced Czar Bar which used to be discreetly situated on the lobby level of the hotel in the far left hand corner. I don’t know why Ravi Ghai shut down Czar, but I am glad he got Koh in there. I quite like Thai food. Until now, my favourite Thai restaurant was Ananda Solomon’s, Thai Pavilion at The Taj President, or Vivanta as it is called now. I wonder if we will ever get around to calling all these old hotels by their new names. I mean, The Taj is Taj and The Oberoi, Oberoi. At best, old Oberoi and new Oberoi, not Trident.

But this is about Koh in Intercontinental, which used to be where Hotel Natraj stood years ago. The Ghais were successful changing our mindset with the change of names. Perhaps the makeover was so startling, we had no choice.

Well, here I was now at Koh, eating  a superlative, specially prepared meal by Chef Ian Kittichai, whose philosophy is simple. To make great food, there can be no compromise on the quality of the raw material and so Chef Ian along with the Koh team have carefully selected only the best quality ingredients from not just Thailand, but the world over...premium Australian lamb chops, New Zealand green-lipped mussels, Alaskan cold water cod, Japanese Hamachi fish, yellowfin tuna, Maine diver scallops and Brazilian tenderloin, as well as Wagyu, and these are flown in thrice a week.

Chef Ian Kittichai understands the importance of the vegetarian aspect of a meal in India and has picked a selection of the finest fresh vegetables and handmade silken tofu flown in thrice weekly from the bustling markets of Bangkok and Chiang Mai – organic Edamame, snake beans, morning glory, kalian, bok choy, shiso, sugarsnap peas, snowpeas, water chestnuts, organic asparagus, and many more. The best quality mushrooms are also flown in from all parts of Japan, including the Shiitake, the oyster, the Enoki, the woodear, the Honshimeji and of course, the straw mushrooms.

All other Thai condiments such as salt, chilli, ginger, pepper are all imported on a weekly basis to ensure that guests get nothing but the absolute best.

This philosophy extends even to the desserts and Koh’s chocolate desserts are made with Valrhona chocolate only, widely regarded as the ‘gold standard’ in chocolate, imported from the French chocolate manufacturer based in the small town of Tain-L´Hermitage in Hermitage, a wine-growing district near Lyon. The fruit used for the desserts are sourced from Thailand and brought in thrice a week as well, to ensure that the quality is incomparable.

Once I was done with my lunch, the chef and I went to Corleone, the Italian restaurant on the first floor. I like bright and naturally lit places and Corleone is just that. It´s a perfect place to sit
and chat.

I let Chef Ian do the talking. I wanted to know all there was to know about him. And he complied, by begining with smilingly informing me that he loves Bombay and is very happy each time he comes here.

Here then is his story. Ian Kittichai  is Thai, he lived in Bangkok until his destiny changed. His traditional name is Pongtawat Chalermkittichai. But he is best known as Ian to close friends
and patrons.

He was already on a culinary path in his hometown when every morning he would rise at 3 am to accompany his mother to the wet market to select the best meats, seafood, and vegetables from her neighbourhood grocery. While Ian was at school, she would cook a dozen different types of curries. Upon his return home, he would push a cart through the neighbourhood to sell his wares, shouting: “Khao Geang Ron Ron Ma Leaw Jaar!” Which translated meant, “Hot curry coming!"

After completing college in Bangkok, Ian moved to London to study English. He had absolutely no intention of becoming a chef. Fate seemed to have other ideas though. While working part-time at the Warldolf Hotel THF, the hotel chef saw something of great promise in young Ian. Before long, the hotel sponsored him to attend the culinary school. He subsequently completed his culinary studies in Sydney and then spent his years of apprenticeship absorbing French fine dining cuisine at the famous Claude’s.

Ian then decided to return to his homeland and work for the prestigious Regent Four Seasons Hotel, Bangkok as a Demi Chef. This was 1993. He quickly rose through the ranks while mastering various cuisines and winning acclaim in multiple international culinary competitions. His career path in the Four Seasons organisation took him to culinary exchanges around the world where he was able to further perfect his talent and craft. He then got opportunities to work in the magnificent Four Seasons Georges V Hotel in Paris, French Laundry in Napa Valley, El Bulli in Spain, and Four Seasons Chinzan-so Hotel in Tokyo. Chef Ian Kittichai was now free to fully spread his culinary wings.

In 1998, Chef Ian became the first Thai national in the world to become Executive Chef of a 5-star hotel property, the venerable Four Seasons Hotel, Bangkok. In 2001, the Bangkok Post dubbed him, "The Golden Boy". He began hosting the weekly cooking show, Chef Mue Tong (The Golden Hand Chef), which presently can be seen in over 50 countries.

In 2004, he relocated to New York City to open his highly acclaimed Kittichai restaurant in Thompson Hotel. His New York restaurant reviews appeared in Food & Wine magazine as Best New Asian Restaurant 2005, in Travel & Leisure magazine as Best New American Restaurant 2004, as well as in Harpers Baazar, Vogue, GQ, New York Magazine, New York Times, Condenast Traveller, Gourmet Traveller, and Vanity Fair, amongst numerous others.

March 2008 proved to be a turning point of sorts. Ian left Kittichai restaurant to form his international Food & Beverage management and consulting firm, Cuisine Concept Co. Ltd., and also  opened the celebrated restaurant, Del Murmuri, in the Hotel Del Murmuri in Barcelona. Cuisine Concept  has some of the most recognisable international hotels, restaurants, and food companies on its client roster, such as Indochine and Republic in New York City, Hakkasan and Busaba Eathai in London, and Rayavadee Resort and Tamarind Village as well as the Pomodoro Group and Veranda Spa & Resorts in Thailand.

Early this year the ever busy chef opened Ember Room, an American-Asian BBQ restaurant, with Chef Todd English, in New York. He also marked the debut of his Signature Menu at the Yacht Club, Intercontinental Hotel, Abu Dhabi. And now Chef Ian Kittichai has become the brand ambassador for all Central Food Halls and Tops Supermarkets in Thailand.

Quite an impressive career graph, anyone would agree. When I tell him so and enquire in which country does he actually live. He again gives his big smile and says, he "commutes" between Bangkok, Barcelona, Bombay and New York with his wife and two sons. And then he gives an even bigger smile and says, "But I love Bombay best!"