Chow Bella Says Fahad Samar

Gastronomical Goa

UpperCrust introduces a new foodie column by a talented filmmaker whose gourmet sensibilities match his literary ones

There is a conceit, parochially propounded, that Mumbai and Delhi offer the finest fine dining experiences in India for gourmets and gluttons alike. Mumbaikars and Delhiwallahs are fiercely proud of the varied world cuisine that is available to them at 5 star eateries such as Wasabi, China House, Zodiac Grill and Orient Express or at signature restaurants like Olive, Indigo, Magique and Diva.

Whilst our financial and national capitals may indeed proffer a smorgasbord of culinary delights, it is my contention that the fun capital of India, Goa, is where the most exciting and innovative foodie action currently lies.

Now Goa is admittedly more in the news these days for dishing dirt and spicy scandals rather than its piquant local fare. However, Goan xacutis, balchaos, cafreals and peri-peris have always found a special place in the hearts and bellies of gastronomes around the globe.

Britto’s, Mum’s Kitchen, Café Venite, O Cocqueiro and Souza Lobo are but a few local exponents of delicious Goan cuisine, but there has also been a steady growth of exceptional eateries which have transcended indigenous cooking and entirely transformed the culinary landscape. Be it Burmese, Greek, French or Italian, I personally feel one can now eat better, more authentic world cuisine in Goa than anywhere else in India.

There are two major reasons for this gastronomic explosion.

1. The influx of foodies from Delhi, Mumbai and Bangalore: With the advent of cheap air travel and the growing popularity of this emerald state as a coveted vacation destination, a large number of affluent Indians from the major metros head to Goa far more frequently. This has resulted in several yuppie Indian entrepreneurs setting up premium restaurants to cater to these well-heeled and equally well-travelled Indian tourists apart from the usual foreign hordes.

A unique trend in Goa is the establishment of several excellent mom and pop fine dining restaurants like Fiesta run by Yellow and Manek Contractor, A Reverie run by Aakritee and Virendra Sinh and J and A’s run by the eponymous Jamshed and Ayesha Madon. These restaurants are high on ambience and service and their eclectic (and yes, expensive) menus are consistently superb.

Woodfired pizzas crisped to perfection, wasabi prawns, succulent steaks and fresh catch from the sea ensure a loyal customer base which includes the country’s top industrialists, film stars and politicians.

Each of these couples work hard through the season and then shut shop to travel the world the rest of the year – picking up on latest food trends, constantly innovating and updating their culinary oeuvre.

Other notable Indian owned restaurants include i-95 at Calangute whose beef carpaccio and delicately flavoured lobster are truly sublime. Travel Bar run by Bangalorean’s Vinay and Angie has a limited but excellent menu and they are mercifully open all year round.

The terrific Republic of Noodles run by the former manager of Oberoi Delhi’s 360° comes to the rescue when one is fed up of fish curry rice and seized with the urge to indulge in tempura and tepanyaki!

The recently opened uber trendy Club Fresh at Morjim and Clube da Praia at Reis Magos are two stunningly spacious lounge bars which easily hold their own with the hippest hotspots around the world. The former is extremely popular for its exceptional Thai cuisine whilst the latter serves up surprisingly palatable French, Italian and Lebanese fare.

2. The influx of Foreign Restaurateurs: Since the seventies, Goa has been a haven for foreign tourists and a large number who were seduced by its ample charms opted to settle here and open restaurants with varying degrees of success and competence. Those that are good are very good indeed and amongst the finest is Bomra’s at Sinquerim run by the supremely talented Bawmra Jap whose fusion Burmese cooking can transport one to dizzying heights of delectation. The man whips up an exquisite squid with spicy papaya salad and a delightful duck curry with sweet tamarind and groundnut shoot whilst his pomegranate margaritas are insidiously heady!

La Plage at Morjim is run by the ménage a trois of Serge, Florence and Morgan. The saucy French pescatarian fare conjured is truly par excellence. The piece de resistance, for me, is undoubtedly the sinful chocolate crepes.

The indefatigable Mariketty, owner of the fabulously located Thalasa at little Vagator is a sheer joy to encounter as is her scrumptious Greek fare which includes dolmades, mousakka, souvlaki and baked fish. And her profiteroles are a just dessert - a fitting finale to a fantastic meal.

At Anjuna, authentic Italian rustica can be savoured at Basilico and Bellissima, the pizzas, pesto and tiramisu truly hit the spot after imbibing a carafe or three of vino in this charming alfresco eatery.

At Baga, the Lila Café has long been a brunch favourite with its fresh buffalo mozzarella croissants, smoked fish and Swiss rostis followed by a frothy cappuccino.

Of course, these are but a random sampling of some of my personal favourites. The trick now is to ascertain for yourself whether my hypothesis is correct-that Goa is indeed the new food capital of India. Even if you choose to eventually disagree, your culinary explorations, I assure you, will be entirely agreeable. Bon appetit!