CALICUT

Calicut’s Moplah Culinary Magic!

The Malayalam-speaking Muslims of the Malabar district of North Kerala, are known as Moplahs. They are  Arab descendants. Centuries ago, when Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to India and landed at Calicut, Arabs sailed over to trade in spices, silk and other commodities. Several settled down in India and took local Kerala women as brides. The Moplahs are descended from that intermarriage. Even in 21st century Calicut, the Moplahs still bear some traces of their ancestry. This is in their attire and cuisine. Certainly, the hot and dry Kerala climate encouraged a change in the traditional Arab costume. Today it is reduced to a white lungi and shirt and a turban tied around the head. The Arab moustache and beard remains. Moplahs are easily identified by their appearance. And then there’s their  cuisine. A hearty and robust food, with plenty of meats and fish, and the Arab influence in dishes Eggs are had for breakfast too, but not fried, scrambled or in an omelette. The Moplah way to have it is a rich onion-based brown roast with thick Malabar parathas.

Making the Malabar paratha is an art. It is made out of rice flour in layers, and pan-fried. At the end, the man making it crumbles it up like a handkerchief. The fish market of Calicut is a joy for the gourmet who likes ‘doing the bazaar’ himself every morning to select the catch of the day that comes in fresh from the Arabian Sea.

Abida  Rasheed is perhaps Calicut’s most famous Moplah woman. Well-known for her outstanding food, she is Calicut’s most recognised Moplah cook. Her cooking is legendary. Malayalis in Calicut wanting to introduce outsiders to the cuisine of the Malabari Muslims ask to be invited to Abida’s home. She is as warm and hospitable as she is talented at putting together a menu of authentic Moplah food.

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