Swadeeka Welcome To A The Land Of Many Smiles
Taking off with her mother on an impulsive trip brimming with equal measure of Phuket's resort bliss and Bangkok's shopping mayhem NUPUR MAHAJAN-SINH experienced the perfect holiday  

Ever wondered why the super rich indulge in resort vacations? When they check-into super deluxe hideaways nestled in the world's best known holiday spots and refuse to step out. Resort bound they dedicate the week to luxuriating in these sanctuaries of sumptuousness — lazing on the beach, incorporating a new fitness routine, enhancing culinary prowess, assimilating best sellers, relishing epicurean delights and improving golf handicap. The destination for them is the resort, the backdrop a bonus, and no further. Ok, they do pop out ever so rarely to applaud a must-do performance, succumb to a famed restaurant or head for a guided trek but these are bit roles in the grand orchestration. And often they repeat performance year after year, most often at the very same resort!

And so looking to perfect resort posh I chose Phuket with its promise of powdery white sand, endless reefs, delectable food, Thai hospitality and then the ease of familiarity - both mom and I having been earlier. Only this time the boundaries were drawn. The Chedi, a spectacular resort rising dramatically above the secluded Pansea Bay, was to be our Mecca. But will we be able to contain holiday stupor and merely stay put I wondered as we drove up the slope to a spectacle of thatched cottages at varying heights, amidst a tropical thicket sashaying all the way down, to reveal at its pedestal the deepest blue glimmering water. I drew a breath, this wouldn't be a punishment. Our beach deluxe suite made the belief stronger. Down a mountain of steps and lobby level action beyond the black-tiled pool, with many eager for the in-pool scuba dive and others sipping candy-coloured aperitifs at the Sunset Bar. Across the slope-side wooden walkway all the way down to the crescent beach.

The ipod hummed soft jazz, deck chairs sun-bathed and inviting led to the portico that served up the ocean ahead and vivacious waves followed us indoors to our all-wood chalet. Blow-in-breeze wood shutters, woven palm panels, chic tropical furnishings and enormous tub complete with candles and salts completed our home for the next three nights. So snug and plush it washed off all weariness of the impromptu journey… Perhaps here I should give you the background. Mom and I share our birthday - she went into labour while cutting her birthday cake!! - and this year as I wished her and she me, I decided it had to be special and swung into impulsive action. 24hours later she chugged out of wintry Dehradun and boarded Thai Airways to swoop down at Bangkok where I joined her. And less than 48hrs later here we were at our beach casa in sun-kissed Phuket. Just ma and daughter. And before you conjure up visions of a voluntary geriatric duty, let me explain. Whenever we are together everyone wants to be introduced to my hot 'sister'! So with my hip, energetic and rocking ma Phuket was more like two girlfriends on a roll.

Action started almost immediately as we stripped down to bikinis and submitted to the luminous beach and lukewarm waves right ahead. The water was therapeutic and while we made plans to get on the hobby cat, kayak and play ping pong I noticed mustard yellow patches peeking through the foliage. Ah, the famed Amanpuri splendid still in its 20th year. No boundaries carve up the sister resorts and so one instant you are surrounded by faces familiar and the next you bypass Naoki, Aman's all-the-rage Jap restaurant to arrive at the foot of a pyramid-like stone stairway that leads you to all its opulence within. The billionaire bay I'd call it where global rich rub shoulders on white sands over sun, sushi and snorkelling!

Day one was earmarked to decelerate and we'd booked the spa for a signature 150minute treatment each. The spa cottage is tiny yet cosy, and sitting at the outdoor deck sipping lemongrass tea we realised that nowhere in the resort does the spectacle of glistening water leave you. Soon we succumbed to our sprightly masseuses who pack in massive pressure into tiny frames: traipsing along our back, pounding calves, stretching shoulders and breathing life into our wearied bodies. In all these years of spa stopovers nothing and nobody comes close - the genuine concern, the signature method and above all the fervent desire to heal puts Chedi masseuses in a league of their own. Born-again we waltzed out to witness the sun set in a blaze of purple, orange and gold glory. Despite my apprehension of being confined here we were grappling with choices — sunset from our private patio, on the beach, at the Sunset Bar or at the Beach Restaurant? And dinner… thankfully the hotel offers special evenings almost every day of the week and today in line with our just-arrived status was the Thai dinner buffet with regional specials Paneang Moo, Goong Sarong and fresh catch-of-the-day barbeque over classical Thai music and dance. Sleep later was never so sweet.

Waking up to glorious sunshine we hired a sedan and drove out along the coast through the curves and climbs of Phuket's hilly topography and her fascinating beaches to the relatively quieter Karon Beach. Words cannot illustrate the feeling of fulfilment and thrill as I sat beside ma munching chocolate croissants and gleefully chatting — this holiday was the finest decision of my life. Zipping across we bypassed our earlier hosts the applauded Meridian Resort boasting seven gourmet restaurants and then the Hilton with its golf course, metres away from Karon's golden sands and purple beach umbrellas. After lunch at Ocean View Restaurant comprising most of everything that the sea had on offer we drove back to Phuket's newest shopping haven, Jung Ceylon. Remarkable in its brands and mall mix, design and décor, pick of restaurants and pubs and then the central square offering live entertainment. Landings are bazaars of deals offering street delights: bling glares and straw beach totes and then, choicest brands. We picked up Guy Laroche swimsuits at ridiculous prices! The basement is all of Thailand in all its glory and where, our arms loaded with shopping bags we sat down to a signature foot reflexology.

A wise move, since the evening was a barefoot march from our beach home to the dramatically lit Beach Restaurant for an outstanding meal of Nicoise salad with seared tuna, grilled fresh prawns, broccoli risotto and freshly churned ice cream. Unmatched both in terms of the quality of food and service, and the setting. Later, we drifted off midway through our midnight movie and woke up ready to relish our last day in Phuket. A sizeable chunk of which was dedicated to Chedi's Cooking Class, all friendly banter and budding chefs trying hard to take back to their kitchens the Thai delights they've grown to love. Relaxed with our gourmandising escapade we decided it was to be a night around town. And Patong it was with its medley of bars and cafes, go-go girls gyrating round poles, the plumes and haughtiness of Soi Bangla's dancers and then the thrill of mingling with an assortment of holidayers from across the globe.

Dinner destination was pre-set. Ma had fallen in love with Manathai’s signature restaurant; a minute away from the hotel. We'd glanced at the menu the very first evening, when we familiarised ourselves with our immediate surrounding and sitting down now we discovered we were not isolated in our choice. Weaves is quite the fancy of both Amanpuri and Chedi's truant guests! Given that both properties have 90 per cent repeat guests, some frequenting past 10 years, its only natural they have their favourites outside of the resort too! A fact that Tony, senior sales manager and a friendly face in the lobby explained aptly, "Every year guests ask if there is anything new and when the staff declines, they tut-tut only to come back soon enough! If they wanted new they'd go elsewhere here they derive comfort in familiarity." But the German couple, who daily beat us to the deck chairs bang outside our suite, on their seventh annual trip pointed out that things did change at The Chedi. "Your suite is new, rebuilt since the killer tsunami washed off the original!" German humour... We laughed driving to the airport, ma unwilling to part with her sedan till the very last minute. And here itself the shopping mood set in as she finally indulged in Phuket's famous pearls. The excuse? They were for me!

Three hours later ma dozed and I unpacked in the confines of yet another super luxurious suite at our very Thai, tres plush and centrally located The Sukhothai. Bangkok and Sukhothai are synonymous for me, can't have one without the other! One of my rules is to try and stay at an indigenous chain replete with the touches of the land and Sukhothai is brimming with Thai artefacts, boasts the largest art collections and is blissfully dwarfed in its Thai architecture in sky-kissing South Sathorn Road. And most vitally it is ten minutes driving time to all of the choicest shopping havens. Grateful at getting the suite despite the short notice, now rejuvenated we sat down to the perfect perk up -- a chocolate buffet offering a luscious spread of cakes, chocolates, puddings, sandwiches.... mmmmm! Soon we were walking down Chidlom with its Central Mall, Siam Paragon and old favourite MBK. Hours later arms weighed down with our preferred brands we headed back to crash. But the day was far from over.

Another Bangkok ritual is the Suan Lum Night Market, a five minute walk away from Sukhothai. And at 10 we hit this potpourri of handicrafts, clothes, spa products and curios in wood, porcelain and brass all centred round a food square with live performances going on way past midnight. It's more a cultural dose than a shopping spree and is always well worth the appointment. We didn't mind the fatigue as tomorrow we were starting the day with Colonade's famous breakfast spread and later ridding holiday stress by way of signature treatments at the Spa Botanica, newest member of the Sukhothai guest indulgence inventory! Tingling fresh the afternoon was a short walk through a surprising drizzle to Siolim's revelry. Phat Pong minus its nightly sins, satays being fried and chillies pounded on the pavement and the clamour at roadside shanties selling 'genuine fakes'! For dinner we kept our appointment with the multi-awarded Celadon, designated custodian of the finest Thai cuisine where Chef Vera's fresh ingredients and timeless recipes evoked flavours and a certain satiation till then alien. A fitting end to a wonderful five days before tomorrow when ma and I would fly our separate ways, to our now individual homes.

Do it before it's too late, take your mum on a holiday and rest assured of the most memorable days of your life.



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