IF you read the story before this, of the Jaishankar Lassi House, then follow a word of advice. If you are in Surat and are going to be visiting Chock Bazar for khaman and lassi, then have the khaman first, it is available right next to the lassi shop. The khaman is spicy. And what better way to wash down the aftertaste than with a glass of thick, creamy lassi!

The man in charge of the Jalaram Rasawala Khaman place is Ashokbhai Champaklal Khamanwala, a friendly Surti who started the business 30 years ago and is his himself astonished and pleased at how successfully it has grown since then. He runs the business by himself, working hard from 8 in the morning till 8 at night, and even though he has outside help with the preparation of the khaman, once it is ready he manages the Jalaram Rasawala Khaman place alone.

Khaman is a type of Surti farsan, it is made with Bengal gram dal, and while elsewhere in the city it is served dry with chutneys, Ashokbhai Khamanwala serves a gravied version of this popular Surti delicacy. The �raswala� khaman is prepared by making a �ras� of garam masala, mag-ni-dal, channa dal, and lots of tomatoes. Once the spicy gravy is ready, Ashokbhai tops it with sev, finely chopped onion, and a kuchumber. He does not reveal the actual ingredients or the recipe of his popular �ras�, naturally, but regulars there suspect he laces it with tamarind and jaggery as well to get that tangy sauce as a base.

A plate of Raswala Khaman and Dhokla has Ashokbhai laying out the dhokla in a plate (it is a steamed farsan, made with Bengal gram, similar to an idli, but which can be cut into pieces and which is mildly spiced) and then liberally pouring the ras all over it. A plate of this spicy and filling meal costs only Rs. 8. And Ashokbhai modestly says he sells about 2,000 plates a day! �What to do,� he says grumbling good-naturedly, �Surtis can have Raswala Khaman any time of the day. They have it for breakfast, lunch and even dinner. I have people waiting for me to open at 8 in the morning!�

And the demand goes on till late at night, with Surtis riding up on bikes for the Raswala Khaman and then a lassi at the shop next door!

RASWALA KHAMAN
Ingredients:
1/4 kg bengal gram flour; 5 green
chillies; 1/2 tsp asafoetida powder;
1/2 tsp turmeric powder; 1 tsp soda
bicarbonate; 1 tbsp oil; 1/2-3/4 cups
water ;1/2 tbsp salt
For Ras: 75 gm tamarind;
100 gm jaggery; 2 cups water;
1 tbsp oil; 2 Kashmiri red chillies;
1/2 tsp mustard seeds; 1/2 tsp
fenugreek seeds; 1 one-inch piece
cinnamon; 1/4 tsp turmeric powder;
1 tsp chilli powder; 1/4 tsp asafoetida;
4 curry patta; Salt to taste
For garnishing: 2 tbsp chopped
coriander leaves 2 tbsp grated coconut