THE Poona Kumbhariya Sardar Market in Surat is a colourfully exciting place with farmers coming in bringing garden fresh produce from all over Surat and from Baroda nearby, which is Sardar Patel�s area. Other cities might employ smoke-emitting Matador vans to bring and take their vegetables and fruits to the markets, Surat uses converted Enfield motorcycles for the task. The two-wheelers are fixed with a small trailer at the back on which not only do the farmers load their produce, but they get on themselves, and hitch a noisy ride to the market.

Inside the market, the scene is somewhat less chaotic than expected. But it is noisy all right. Gujaratis, by nature, and from birth, are a loud people. At the Sardar Market, in the early morning, they either conduct their sales in loud sing-song voices, or they sit silently over their account books and newspapers. But everywhere, the produce speaks for itself. The vegetables are green and fresh. Surtis like them this way. To them, anything that is green is palatable. And they are great believers in seasonal vegetables and fruits. Nothing that is not naturally grown is really accepted at the table. So they will make do with what comes to the market rather than search for exotic and artificially grown stuff.

Like this is the season for turiya, karela and jackfruit seeds, the Surtis use these in delicious vegetables made during the monsoon. The Surti berry also makes an appearance around this time of the year. And the white tamarind, which is the poor man�s fruit, consumed with mirchi. And when it is winter, then the Surtis look for Paunk, which is Vani Nu Jowar. Or jowar that is not allowed to grow fully into jowar, and as a result, remains soft and delicate. What a delicacy this is when smouldered in ash, removed from its husk, and eaten raw and fresh in December and January. Also the winter Papdi. Winter is also the season of Undhiyu. More fresh and leafy vegetables are available during Surat�s winter than summer. In summer, the vegetables look as if they have no life in them and are either tough or partially dried out. But Surat has mangoes and watermelons in abundance in summer.