THE Jaishankar Lassi House in Surat's Chock Bazar (yes, that's Chock!) area, is one of those small establishments that is run with fierce pride by an enterprising Surti woman of great determination and character. It is at least 40 years old. And the woman behind the counter, Sumanbhen Satariya, is a grandmotherly type who runs it with her grandson Jignesh. Her son, Jayantibhai, started the business and then passed away some 15 years ago. Since then, Sumanbhen has been running it successfully. And, what's more, she can make the popular flavoured lassi herself.

The lassi house is little more than a stall at the corner of a popular junction in Chock Bazar. It is cheek-by-jowl with the Jalaram Rasawala Khaman stall and equally popular. Its patrons ride up mostly on two-wheelers, stop, and order their lassis which the consume slowly and luxuriously while still perched on their bikes. There are just two drinks available here: the lassi and what is simply known as Coco. �It is a chocolate item,� explains Jignesh. The lassi comes in glasses of different sizes and costs Rs. 10 and Rs. 6. For Rs. 15, you get a Maharaj Lassi, which is full of malai and kaju. It is very popular in Surat.

�We open at 8 in the morning during all seasons,� says Sumanbhen, �and you will be surprised to see that even in winter, when most people avoid having cooling drinks, our customers start queueing up early in the morning for lassi. We do full business at 8 a.m.� The business continues to be brisk and running till 11.30 at night when Sumanbhen and her grandson shut down and go home. Encouraged by the success of the enterprise, the charming old lady set up branches of Jaishankar Lassi House in three places in Surat. �All of them are doing very well,� she says smiling happily.