An Ottoman Mosque That Dominates The Cairo Skyline
From anywhere you enter the city, the mosque of Muhammad Ali will be there to greet you says FARZANA CONTRACTOR as she enters the citadel that surrounds it. This stunning mosque dominates the skyline of Cairo. You can enter the city from any direction, you will be greeted by this imposing structure.  Not among the oldest of mosques, Mosque of Muhammad Ali was built only in the mid 19th Century. And it took 27 years to be completed. It was commissioned by Muhammad Ali Pasha in memory of Tusun Pasha, his son who died in 1816. The architect, a Greek, Jacob Bushnaq of Istanbul built it on the lines of the Blue Mosque of Istanbul.As I entered the outer courtyard, barefoot, for you have to remove your shoes at the entrance as a mark of respect, the marble floor felt cool and pleasant under my feet. And the courtyard itself looked pretty with its tall arcade, each vault crowned with a dome on top of the roof. The water tank for ablution with its intricately carved marble fountain in the center, was among the prettiest I had seen, anywhere. I believe the congregation for the Friday Namaaz over here is huge.  On the edge, behind the fountain stood a clock tower, with it's time standing still at 6.35. Apparently the clock was given to Muhammad Ali by King Louis Philippe as a return gift for the obelisk which stands in the Place de la Concorde in Paris. I learnt the clock has never worked. It was said to be damaged in transportation.As I made my way past the long vaulted corridors I saw many tourists outside on the terrace, admiring the city as it lay below in shades of brown. But before I made my way there, I proceeded in the direction of the mosque. I wished to go have a look at the interior, the mosque's central hall. Which I rather liked. I was told earlier that the interior of this mosque was not in keeping with it's majestic exterior, that it was inferior in quality,  even tacky… Well, it was different from other mosques I have seen. With not as many people praying as tourists sitting on the threadbare carpet discussing the merits and demerits of the place in hushed tones. With sunlight pouring inside through the many doors and the stone latticed windows, it made for a charming picture.The interior looked very colourful in comparison to its brown stone exterior. The center dome measuring 41x41 meters gave a great feeling of space. It was clever architecture. The use of two levels of domes gives a much greater sense of space than there actually is. The central dome rises on four arches standing on colossal piers. There are four semicircular domes around the central dome and four smaller domes on the corners as well. The domes are painted and embellished with motifs. The walls and pillars are covered with alabaster up to 11 meters high. Two elegant minarets, pencil like, in Turkish style with balconies and conical caps, rise 246 feet into the sky. Apparently the mosque has undergone and continues to undergo repairs, even currently. I learnt that very major renovations had taken place earlier. In 1899 the mosque had showed signs of cracking and some inadequate repairs had taken place, but the condition of the mosque became so dangerous that a complete overhaul was ordered by King Fuad in 1931 and the task was completed by King Farouk in 1939.  About Muhammad Ali, who the mosque is named after; he was the viceroy of Egypt from 1805 until he died in 1849. Although he was most successful, winning many wars, he was deprived the fruits of his victories by the European powers. He was however given the right to pass his power to his descendents who ruled Egypt until 1952 when King Farouk was overthrown. It was he who reformed the country along modern lines and founded a dynasty that ruled Egypt until middle of the 20th century. He modernized the governmental administration and military forces. Muhammad Ali Pasha died in Alexandria. Eight years later his body was transferred to Cairo and buried in the courtyard of this mosque, in a tomb carved beautifully from Carrara marble. It takes just a couple of hours to fit a trip to this mosque into your itinerary. Well worth it, for the Mosque, the citadel and the awesome view of Cairo. |
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