A visit to the Arctic and Antarctic may resemble the Judgement of Paris, in which the poor mortal of the Greek myth was forced by the Gods to decide which of the three Goddesses (Hera, Aphrodite and Athene) was the most beautiful. A difficult task indeed, as all three were Goddesses and so were all obviously divinely attractive. But just as happened to Paris, both these poles seem attractive to me. So let's take a closer look in this narrative at the breathtakingly beautiful Polar Regions which are diametrically different as regards to composition and situation.
My family and I are all trekking enthusiasts with a passion for mountains. Our dreams to go beyond known lands, made us research the possibilities of visiting two remote and little known places — the Antarctic and the Arctic. Aided by luck and perseverance, we finally set off for our cherished destinations in the hope of realising our dreams. On our return, whenever we would share our experiences about the two little known regions, though we visited them separately in three expeditions, we would have everyone in rapt attention. This inspired me to pen down my invigorating experiences in the form of a book titled Arctic and Antarctic — Journeys To The Extremities Of The Earth, to reach out to many more, who would marvel at such an inimitable creation of God.
This coffee table book with several coloured photographs and maps aims to be a lucid guide to those who desire to look beyond the horizon!
The Arctic encompasses a vast wilderness of continents, ocean, islands and ice-sheets. Arctic Ocean is the centerpiece of the Circumpolar North. Lands bordering on this region include those of Alaska, Canada, Greenland/ Denmark, Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. The Arctic Circle — a geographic ring crowning the globe, associated with the 66th parallel is known to most people as the spot where the sun never sets on June 21, the summer solstice and the spot where the sun never rises on December 21, the winter solstice.
Remnants of many former cultures can be seen in the Arctic. It has a fascinating heritage of people who perfectly understood how to prosper in coherence with their harsh environment. The history of the Arctic can be divided into two periods based on, before and after the arrival of the Europeans. The Europeans came to the Arctic for strategic expansion in other unexplored parts of the world.
They still hunt, trap and fish by dog sledge and kayak, yet snowmobiles, helicopters and satellite phones ascertain that life is not as secluded as it once was.
In the summers during May-June we visited the Arctic Alaska. Tourism is more prevalent in the Arctic than in the Antarctic. In the Arctic one finds both local products and everything of interest from anywhere else. So when it comes to quality foods and shopping, there is something worthwhile for every taste and every budget.
Northern Alaska is cool to cold, all year round, so one has to dress appropriately for the weather to enjoy it to the hilt. Layer (inner, middle, outer) your clothing so that you can adapt quickly to weather changes, with a comfortable shirt, a warm jacket and a waterproof, breathable coat or parka (Gore-Tex is ideal). Always wear comfortable shoes or boots that can withstand a soaking. The average rainfall is only about 5-8 inches a year. The climate is part of what makes Alaska such a magnificent place to visit.
In terms of cruising in Alaska, the summer season, between June and September offers the best conditions for exploration. We began our cruise journey from Vancouver in Canada, which is an exciting and lively city. We had a fabulous time cruising the Inside Passage of Alaska (seeing the wildlife, the blue ice and experiencing the thunderous roar of an iceberg calving as we stood in awe before the majestic ice-capped mountains, fringed by glaciers that dip into transparent fjords created by the massive rivers of ice) in the calm Pacific waters before visiting the beautiful Alaskan locales like Ketchikan, Juneau, Sitka and Skagway. What could have been more wonderful than getting up every morning in a different exotic port of call with dramatic scenery changes? Travel should not only mean going to unusual and unique places but it should be to enjoy the beauty of that particular place, to interact with different people, their culture and varied styles.
We visited one of the Indian villages around Ketchikan where we saw elaborately carved Totem Poles.
Our Alaskan journey ended in Barrow, which is the northernmost city in Alaska situated 340 miles north of the Arctic. It is located near the shore of the Arctic Ocean and can be reached by flights from Fairbanks or Anchorage. The frozen Arctic Ocean is a treat to watch as the plane taxies down at the Barrow airport. It is simply amazing to travel round in the middle of the night on this frozen ocean in dogsleds in 24 hour daylight to discover its unparalleled beauty and the almost extinct white Polar bears. And as one traverses through the vast blanket of the ocean one is witness to the unbelievable works of nature and is transformed from a traveler to an explorer.
This is by far the best way to go, as you should never do anything halfway.
Barrow is an area of superlative natural beauty and exceptional scientific value. It has research stations actively undertaking research programs. A visit to this beautiful land of the midnight sun is indeed one you will cherish all your life. Barrow has one of the world's largest Eskimo settlements. It was exciting to meet them, watch their cultural shows (the famous blanket toss, where several people hold the blanket from all four sides and toss it so that one person who is standing over it jumps to a great height enabling him to spot whales) and understand their difficult lifestyle. As one walks through the streets of Barrow, one feels as if history is tangible and it can almost be smelt! It was an unusual educational adventure exploring the ancient Eskimo culture deep inside the Arctic Circle.
The enthralling Arctic lured us once again and this time we decided to go to the Scandinavian Arctic during the winter in February. From Stockholm, we reached Kiruna (the northernmost town of Sweden) and from thereon reached Jukkasjarvi by dogsled in about 30 minutes. Jukkasjarvi lies 20 km (160 miles) north of the Arctic Circle.
In Jukkasjarvi we had a rather thrilling experience to sleep on an ice bed with a layer of reindeer hides in a sleeping bag. It did feel a bit eerie in the beginning as you wonder whether the night can be survived in an ice room. People with respiratory or other such related problems would definitely feel claustrophobic inside the ice room. And then after spending a night ensconced in the serenity and cool comfort of the Arctic you are woken up in the morning with warm lingonberry juice that feels real good. We use to have our meals at a local inn, which served Laplandic specialities and ice-creams (savour the raspberry sorbet with pistachio cream and cinnamon chips) on an ice plate from the Torne River — but of course to be enjoyed before the plate melts.
The air in Jukkasjarvi is clean and clear and one can see for miles in all directions on a clear day. It is a place that lends itself admirably to walking. The snow isolates us from the sound of the world. During the winter, the outdoor temperature ranges between -5 and -40 degree C. The light at dawn and dusk has a magical character and under the nocturnal light of the moon and the stars, the snow is seemingly luminous. The pure white snow sparkles and inspires one to partake in several winter activities. One can experience the Sami (locals) culture in a traditional Sami tent. A welcome into the 'Sami world' is made with a warm handshake and extends to tasting the exotic flavour of their typical coffee. A more memorable experience in their world is that of a 'Reindeer ride', wherein each person sits on the knees on the sled, holding the rope tied to the reindeer in one hand and the sled with the other, trying to support oneself, as the reindeer starts with a jerk.
There is also fishing that can be done in Jukkasjarvi, in a hole cut out in ice. One can also dare to jump into a hole in the ice of the Torne River for very cold thrilling experience like my spirited father. While the urban scene has hanged towards a certain cosmopolitan uniformity, the vast serenity of Sweden's wilderness remains uniquely timeless. The Arctic is a place that is a celebration of art, culture, tradition, immortal beauty and thrill. The magic of this land unfolds itself most enigmatically even to the unsuspecting soul. It is a trip to the land of unending allure, where nature and beauty permeate the very air that you breathe. The minutiae of what you see may become hazy over a period of time, but the emotion of the experience will stay with you forever.