Astonishing Langkawi!

Foodie and cookery book writer KAREN ANAND travels to Langkawi and is blown over by the Tanjung Rhu, a paradise resort with friendly staff and fabulous food.


If you are in the mood for a holiday full of exoticism, but don't want to pay the earth, Malaysia is for you. Besides shopping malls, knock off original labels, the Formula 1 and a superb airport, we found fabulous food almost everywhere.

After the hustle and bustle of Kuala Lumpur, we flew to the idyllic paradise of Langkawi, an island off the north of Malaysia, a stone's throw from Thailand. The best way to get to Langkawi is to fly. There are 6-8 direct flights from Kuala Lumpur every day. The flight is approximately 50 minutes. Buy your ticket in India, since the Kuala Lumpur-Langkawi sector works out much more reasonable than buying a separate ticket in Kuala Lumpur. For the adventurous, you can take a ferry to Langkawi from Penang.

We stayed at Tanjung Rhu, which means Cape of Casuarinas. It is bliss. A paradise resort with it's own 2.5 kms of private beach, crystal clear aquamarine waters, a friendly staff and more fabulous food. What more would you want from a holiday?

The theme of the resort is 'nature', with an emphasis on wood and natural fibres in earth tones and ecru. The resort offers great value for money packages. They include food, and soft drinks at all their restaurants (a la carte, not buffets), pool snacks, room service etc. There are even packages targeted for couples, which include dinner and a private cruise on their yacht, a Daimler airport pick up and more adventurous packages including the use of their convertible Rover for zipping around the island. The idea is to give you as hassle-free a holiday as possible.

Service is with a smile. Though everyone speaks English, language is sometimes a problem but solutions are sought after swiftly. The underlying tempo of Tanjung Rhu is relaxation and pampering, whether you have a rainforest aromatherapy massage, a swim in the main pool or in the salt water garden oasis pool or just lounge on the beach, ordering tender coconuts.

Now to the food - this is another reason you need not leave the resort. Sands is their out door all day dining restaurant with a wide International and Asian menu. Saffron is the Mediterranean restaurant overlooking the sea and Rhu, their fine dining restaurant, where you can feast on lobster, venison and duck, listen to a string quartet and indulge yourself in superb wines and champagne.

Saffron overlooks the beach. Inside is a bright coloured A/c lounge, perfect for lunch on hot sultry days. In the evenings, you must sit outdoors, on the edge of the beach. Dishes to try here are the Bouillabaisse (Mediterranean Fish Stew) — with local lobster, mussels and clams in a robust tomato and saffron broth. The Sea Bass (not quite as fine textured as the Sea Bass you might find in Europe), but nonetheless fresh and tasty — is served with a reduction of Balsamic vinegar and shallots in olive oil and finished with oven dried tomatoes and feta cheese. Quite an outstanding fusion of the Mediterranean in one dish. The Pizzas are fabulous, more Italian than fast food American and the Oxtail stew, authentically Spanish. The new Saffron menu focuses on dishes from individual countries of the Mediterranean and proves to be better than before.

Rhu is the resort's fine dining restaurant and frankly, if you enjoy artistry on a plate, eat here every night. The menu changes frequently but standard favourites remain. The reading room quartet plays on the same level as this first floor restaurant, across the boardwalk. So you can wine, (the wine list is quite decent, both in terms of choice and price), dine, listen to Nat King Cole, all while overlooking the ocean! Dishes to go for are the Lemongrass Skewered Scallops with a Papaya Salad, Marinated Senangin Fish with local spices, the Bamboo Grilled Tiger Prawns and the Japanese Green Tea Ice-cream.

If eclectic fusion is not your style, the menu offers great classics like a Caesar Salad trolley, Duck Breast with Roasted Shallots, Venison, local Lobster and flambi desserts. Laurent Perrier is the house Champagne, served by the glass and I would strongly recommend the Tanjung Rhu wines, blended specially to match with Asian cuisines in Australia. During season (September to February), Executive Chef Ueli, who has been with the resort for almost a year, imports Dover Sole, Beluga Caviar, Canadian Lobsters and all manner of other International culinary ‘gourmandises’ from Europe and around the world.

I met Chef Presert (pronounced Prasad) at Tanjung Rhu. He takes care of the Asian specialties. He introduced me to his delicious signature dishes; a tangy Thai beef salad, velvety smooth Indonesian curry, beef rendang, Bamboo Chicken and Satays — tame versions of the traditional fire and brimstone recipes, toned down to cater to the international traveler.

The Malays are predominantly Muslim, so you won't find pork (except in some Chinese and European restaurants). There is no pork served in Tanjung Rhu at all.

If Malaysia surprises, Langkawi astonishes and you will be blown over at Tanjung Rhu. The quality of food and service and decadent luxury at a price you wouldn't believe.

I would definitely recommend it as a destination for a family holiday.


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